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111Sli![]() |
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![]() Transport Guru MP Moderator Posts: 4947 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Bromley, Kent | The genuine Rover plugs are Champion. | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | 111Sli - 25/11/2014 11:14 PM The genuine Rover plugs are Champion. Ok. Then perhaps they are champion ones like the Unipart plugs i use in the 998 is also rebranded Champions. | ||
Dave 20VTRO![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 925 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | Those plugs are Champion Platinum tipped plugs, they are std MGR fit that will last for at least 90K miles, they were std fit to mems3 engines and were changed at 90k miles along with the cam belt, as the mems3 engine has plugtop coils (50kv) the gaps were 1mm (040"). | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | Dave 20VTRO - 28/11/2014 4:35 PM Those plugs are Champion Platinum tipped plugs, they are std MGR fit that will last for at least 90K miles, they were std fit to mems3 engines and were changed at 90k miles along with the cam belt, as the mems3 engine has plugtop coils (50kv) the gaps were 1mm (040"). nice info on the gaps there, thank ![]() 90k miles?? aren't the cambelt change interval 60k miles? I normally change plugs after 10k miles, perhaps 15k miles but then they are also overdue. Can you link to somewhere that the change interval is stated? I have been unable to find it on champions webpage. | ||
Dave 20VTRO![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 925 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | The 90K change for the cambelt are for mems3 engines that have the auto-tensioner cam belt, its still 60K for VVC engines whether mems3 or 2J as they all have fixed cam belt tensioners. the plugs will be ok for non plugtop coils, but you may have close the gaps down a bit. I stand corrected on the plug change, its 60K for the plugs, We did used to run them for 90K when we were testing engines to try and get them to the same change time as the cam belts, the LPG converted cars need a much shorter plug change milage at 15K. This site might be usefull: http://www.rovertorque.co.uk/serveinfo.html Edited by Dave 20VTRO 28/11/2014 9:32 PM | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | thanks for the link. that is usefull ![]() | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | this weekend I changed the bushes in the lower rear arms, bit of a job as the bushes didn't just pop out and the bolts were also a bit stuck. but 6 new bushes ended up in the lower arms. I can feel the difference and its much nicer and more predictable going around corners but sadly not going in a straight line, I will try tracking it some time soon and see if that helps with that ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by DotMatrix 30/11/2014 9:49 PM | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | I have in a long time had a small water leak in this car, nothing significant, but I thought it might be the inlet gasket, but today I took the cam-belt cover off to have a look and I noticed the pink stains on my waterpump, so now I know it isn't the inlet manifold gasket, luckily I have a spare pump and gasket which I will fit some day. other than that a hole in the exhaust had developed and I welded that with my strange 220volt welder, looks like crap but I think the leak has been filled. ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by DotMatrix 6/12/2014 9:59 PM | ||
Dave 20VTRO![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 925 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Thinking of vvc'ing my Roadster Brabus :-) | I'd also be worried about the installed position of the cam belt tensioner, its 180 deg out, the hexagon hole should be at the bottom. Google 'Rover K series cam belt picture' and look at the first image. Edited by Dave 20VTRO 10/12/2014 8:51 PM | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | Dave 20VTRO - 10/12/2014 9:47 PM I'd also be worried about the installed position of the cam belt tensioner, its 180 deg out, the hexagon hole should be at the bottom. Google 'Rover K series cam belt picture' and look at the first image. ok thanks for the warning. there seems to be some confusion on what way to position it. I will check with the rave cd when I do the waterpump and position it correctly. having said that it has been positioned like this for the past 72000km (47000miles) ![]() | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | just before christmas I changed one of the upper suspension arms on the rover 400 as the old one had play in it and it soon needs its MOT. very easy to change and relatively inexpensive, a shame the ball join alone cant be changed but you need to to change the whole arm. I also fixed two rust holes in the bottom, one in each side in the same place. ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | decided to fix my flashing airbag light and had a hunch that it was flashing due to a bad connection so I took the airbag, steering wheel, rotary coupler and cowling off, and removed the fuse box cover. disconnected all the plugs measured that the rotary coupler was luckily fine![]() I put it all together and it worked. no more flashing airbag lamp! ![]() ![]() Edited by DotMatrix 23/1/2015 8:17 PM | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | The car has had its MOT so now its road legal for two more years ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | as some of you might have noticed with my threads in the tech section I am changing the gearbox in my rover 400 but have also found that it needed a new clutch. this is still in progress but I have come so far as to be putting things back together now. Please notice my amazing clutch together-holder device ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
petrol_head![]() |
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![]() drive it like its hired ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Looks like rover special tool for the slave cylinder haha ![]() | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | petrol_head - 17/5/2015 9:28 PM Looks like rover special tool for the slave cylinder haha ![]() Yeah. And its the same color (almost) and everything ![]() By the way. I have the gearbox on again now. I hope everything works, especially the used clutch i put in! | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | old gearbox and clutch is out of the car, the clutch arm and brackets have been swapped over to a 57k miles box I removed from a rover 25 and that new box has gone in the car together with some new oil and its working perfectly! ![]() ![]() | ||
DotMatrix![]() |
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![]() Expert Posts: 4458 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Jelling, Denmark | not the most interesting update I know ![]() my front tyres were well worn so purchased two new Dunlop Sport BluResponse, which isn't the most sporty sounding name, but they were quite cheap but looks really good with a lot of thread. the new tyres are the right size (185/55-15) where as the old one were 195/50-15) which looks better but makes the speedo incorrect. ![]() Edited by DotMatrix 23/8/2015 10:03 PM | ||
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